Saturday, August 26, 2017

Jenkins, Kentucky: More Than a Coal Mining Town, Some Things to Do in the Area

Jenkins, Kentucky is more than a coal mining town, though at one time it was arguably the finest coal mining town in the world. The Jenkins area contains some nice attractions, including:

  • The David A. Zegeer Coal - Railroad Museum
  • Kentucky's first designated "distinguished geologic site," and cave(s)
  • A magnificent Civil War monument that pays tribute to those on both sides
  • A linear state park
  • An amphitheater
  • Jenkins's annual Homecoming Days Festival in August
  • A lake, with a larger lake nearby
  • City parks that seem especially nice for a coal mining town
  • Site of Mother Teresa's first rural mission in the United States, as well as a Catholic Church with a display of the stations of the cross
  • Golf course, library, restaurants, lodging in nearby towns, etc.  

 Below I discuss some of the things to do in the Jenkins area.

David A. Zegeer Coal - Railroad Museum
This museum contains a nice selection of photos of Jenkins during its early days as a coal mining town, as well as some newspapers, mining equipment, etc. Jenkins at one time was arguably the finest coal mining town in the world. Its lake, view from Raven Rock, recreation buildings, company stores, dairy, bakery, hospital, schools, brickyard(s), churches, houses constructed for thousands of miners, etc., made it a huge and nice mining town. The numerous pictures in the museum indicate what made Jenkins so wonderful compared to typical mining towns.

Consolidation Coal Company had numerous photographs taken of the town during its construction and afterward to document it. This museum features many of these photographs, as well as copies of old company newspapers, some mining equipment, etc. It also includes some information related to the railroad, and the building the museum is housed in was formerly the Jenkins train station. The museum also has books about the history of the town (and some other things) for sale. 

Lois Greer who works at the museum is a friendly, knowledgeable lady who willingly shares from her knowledge and answers questions about the area. Lois pointed out one photo to me which she said depicts the first drift mine opening in Jenkins and includes Franklin Delano Roosevelt on a horse before he developed polio. She said that photo was probably taken about 1909 or 1910.

I have visited this museum several times and learn something new on each visit.

The museum is located on Main Street in Jenkins and is normally open 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 1 p.m.-5 p.m. Sunday, and closed Monday according to the Facebook page linked to here. Admission is free, but donations would be appreciated.
David A. Zegeer Coal - RR Museum in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken August 19, 2017

Distinguished Geologic Site and Cave(s)
The geologic fault visible on Pine Mountain above Jenkins (beside U.S. Route 23 that leads to Virginia) attracts many persons interested in geology, even some from other countries. It is Kentucky's first designated "distinguished geologic site," as noted on the sign beside the highway shown in the photograph below at the end of this section.  A KET piece linked to here, which includes a link to a 55:15 minute video titled An Electronic Field Trip Through Time, copyright 1999 by KET, discusses this feature in much more detail. 

I remember years ago as a child before the four-lane road was built across Pine Mountain from Jenkins to Virginia that I enjoyed seeing the unusual appearance of the rock formations on the mountain beside the road in places. I enjoyed visiting the area with dad even before our family moved to Jenkins during my junior year of high school. And some say the fault became more noticeable after the four-lane road was built over Pine Mountain, though I thought it was more noticeable before.

Also, in pioneer days the mountain was sometimes referred to as being "hollow" due to the huge cave(s) in it. As just one example of a cave, some distance below the road on the mountain is a large hole called "Blowhole" due to the way small objects put above the opening blew away instead of falling in it. I enjoyed seeing this feature as a boy with dad, though I never actually went down in it. The opening goes many feet down into the ground. The last time I saw it, perhaps five years ago or so, it no longer blew. Perhaps it was damaged by blasting from the road construction, sealed by someone, or blocked by objects thrown into it.

Though at least one cave in the area features magnificent beauty, a river, multiple levels, lots of stalactites and stalagmites, beautiful colors, etc., none of the caves are open for public tours. Many entrances are on private property, and even those on government property require permission to enter. It is probable that many (or all) of the caves are connected or were at one time, though many entrances have been sealed.

A huge cave that extends many miles in the area was discussed:
  • in a chapter in the five-volume 1922 History of Kentucky book,
  • in an April 30, 1971 Hazard Herald article about Ray Love's explorations of part of it that spread nationally via the Associated Press,
  •  by my dad in several talks,
  •  and by others.
There is even speculation that during the 1700s John Swift operated one or more silver mines in the area. My dad (William Edwin "Bill" Gibson) devoted many years to a part-time search for those mines. He said that although he never found a mine, he did find some silver coins. My guess is that even if there were one or more silver mines in the area, the value of the silver would pale compared to the priceless value of the magnificent natural beauty and possible relics left in the cave(s) by early pioneers, Native American Indians, and maybe ancient peoples who predated the Indians. Dad, who felt that the cave went at least from the Breaks Interstate Park to the Cumberland Gap area, called the cave "The Cavern of the Shawnees," which is a term that John Swift allegedly used, too. Dad even mentioned a specific section in the huge cave that he said was sacred to the Shawnee Indians and that no white man would ever enter.

Though the caves may be marvelous, access to them is not easy. Personally, due to the danger, etc., I only did a little caving with my dad decades ago and haven't seen the river, beautiful colors, or many other features dad, Ray Love, and others described.

I urge persons interested in caving to realize the dangers involved in caving. Also, please do not trespass on private property or government property and/or damage priceless caves, artifacts, bats living in the cave(s), etc. It is probably best not to enter the caves at this time. But, if you seek to explore a cave, prepare well and get permission from the government and/or private property owners in advance. And please do not remove anything from the cave(s).                

This sign beside U.S. Route 23 on Pine Mountain above Jenkins notes the geologic significance of the area. photograph taken August 19, 2017
Notice the angle of the rock layers beside U.S. Route 23 above Jenkins, Kentucky in this photograph, photograph taken August 19, 2017 

Civil War Monument
Some Civil War battles/skirmishes took place on the mountaintop above Jenkins. Near the top of Pine Mountain, above Jenkins, beside U.S. Route 23 is a well-done United States Civil War (or War Between the States) monument that pays tribute to those from the Union and the Confederacy. I love this nicely done monument.

One side depicts United States President Abraham Lincoln and Confederacy President Jefferson Davis, who were both born in Kentucky according to most records. The other side features Union General James A. Garfield and Confederate General John Hunt Morgan. The two photos below show both sides of the monument.

Civil War Monument honoring both sides on Pine Mountain above Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken August 19, 2017 


Civil War Monument honoring both sides on Pine Mountain above Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken August 19, 2017
Near the Civil War monument flags fly that represent some of the flag designs used by the Union and Confederacy during the war (see photo below), as well as some benches, and a kiosk with information. In addition there is a smaller memorial for the Pound Gap Massacre in 1892 (see photo below), the back side of which honors Letcher County Coal Miners. A few other small memorials are there, too.


Civil War Monument honoring both sides, etc., on Pine Mountain above Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken August 19, 2017


Memorial for Pound Gap Massacre in 1892 in Virginia on Pound Mountain, Near Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken August 19, 2017

Memorial for Letcher County Coal Miners, photo taken August 19, 2017

Linear State Park
The Pine Mountain State Scenic Trail is a linear state park that is eventually supposed to go from the Breaks Interstate Park to the Cumberland Gap National Historic Park. A portion of this park goes along the ridge of Pine Mountain above Jenkins.  In fact, for hikers seeking to hike a few days "a marked trail runs the Pine Mountain from Pound Gap at Jenkins to Potter Flats in the Breaks Park" according to an article on JoTravels about trails in the Breaks area; I estimate this to be a distance of 20-30 miles.

Near the top of the mountain above Jenkins is Raven Rock, and you can get a beautiful view of Jenkins looking down from it. But a gate across the road to Raven Rock and a "No Trespassing" sign currently prevent access to Raven Rock this way. However, you presumably can access the linear state park at Pound Gap in Virginia or at the Breaks Interstate Park.

Amphitheater
An amphitheater in Jenkins features The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come Outdoor Drama from June-September. A Civil War reenactment was held Aug. 5-6, 2017. Other events are held at the amphitheater occasionally. The Events webpage tells more about these.

Jenkins Homecoming Days Festival
Jenkins holds an annual Homecoming Days Festival in August. Some details about the August 24-26, 2017 event (featuring a variety of music, booths, carnival, parade, fireworks, etc.) are discussed on the CityofJenkins.org webpage linked to here.      

Lake and Nearby Children's Play Area/Park
The man-made lake in the city of Jenkins that provides the city's water supply offers a nice atmosphere not seen in many mining areas. Near the lake are some swings, a park with children's playground equipment, and the city swimming pool. See the photos below.

Children's play area and picnic shelter near the lake in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken September 27, 2017


Part of children's play area near the lake in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken September 27, 2017

Picnic shelter near lake in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken September 27, 2017


Swing, platform, and lake, with some ducks swimming in the lake in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken September 27, 2017
Table with benches, bench, platform and lake in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken September 27, 2017


Jenkins City Swimming Pool, which is located just above the lake in Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken September 27, 2017

Lake that provides water for the city of Jenkins; swings, benches, and a city park with a children's playground area are in the background; the city swimming pool is further back in the background beyond the photo; to the right beyond the photo is the dam for the lake and the Robert "Pud" Shubert City Park, photograph taken August 19, 2017


A few miles from Jenkins is a larger lake, Fish Pond Lake. A LetcherCounty.gov webpage tells more about it and some other Letcher County attractions.

Robert "Pud" Shubert City Park
A second park area, called the Robert "Pud" Shubert Park, is located just past the lake that was photographed in the previous section near downtown Jenkins. This park in Jenkins just below the city lake's dam includes a covered stage, a shelter with picnic tables, and another building. Restrooms are also located in this park. See the photos below.

Stage at Robert "Pud" Shubert City Park in Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken September 27, 2017

Picnic shelter in Robert "Pud" Shubert City Park in Jenkins, Kentucky, photo taken September 27, 2017


Stage (in background) and part of a platform (right center) in Robert "Pud" Shubert Park in Jenkins, Kentucky, photograph taken August 19, 2017

Mother Teresa Mission, Saint George Catholic Church, Stations of the Cross
Saint George Catholic Church in Jenkins has a display of the stations of the cross on the hillside behind the church. And Mother Teresa's religious order Missionaries of Charity set up her first rural mission in the United States in Jenkins. Though the sisters of her organization are not in Jenkins full-time now, their mission and Mother Teresa's visits to Jenkins during her lifetime are another thing that makes Jenkins special.

I'm not sure why she selected Jenkins. Perhaps she wanted to select a location in the poor area of southeastern Kentucky that had a Catholic Church. Jenkins was one of the first places in southeastern Kentucky to have a Catholic Church, and even today there are relatively few Catholic churches in southeastern Kentucky.  


Saint George Catholic Church in Jenkins, Kentucky, on right in photo, photograph taken August 19, 2017


In addition to the Saint George Catholic Church, Jenkins has numerous other churches of various denominations.

Golf Course, Library, Restaurants, Lodging in Nearby Towns, etc.
Golfers may enjoy trying out the eighteen-hole Raven Rock Golf Course, located above Jenkins. The scenery is probably wonderful.

Jenkins also has a reasonably nice library for a small town. The library features a nice selection of materials, including some about the history of the area. I have visited it several times on my visits to Jenkins, as well as while I lived there. In 1961 it (the library has since moved to a new building) was "awarded first prize for being the best small library in the United States" in the Dorothy Canfield Fisher Library Contest, according to the History of Jenkins, Kentucky 1973 book, a portion of which is linked to here on a uchicago webpage.

Jenkins, Kentucky Public Library, photograph taken August 19, 2017


Jenkins has a few restaurants. A Hardees fast food restaurant, Las Penas Mexican Restaurant, and Giovanni's Pizza are probably the main ones. Whitesburg, about 14 miles away, features more restaurants. Pikeville, about 30 miles away from Jenkins (in a different direction than Whitesburg), features many more. The nearby Virginia towns of Pound, Wise, and Norton also have some restaurants.

Jenkins currently does not have a hotel or motel. However, Pikeville about 30 miles away has some. The Whitesburg area has at least one. Nearby towns in Virginia have some, too. The Breaks Interstate Park along the Kentucky-Virginia state line near Elkhorn City includes a lodge.

Whitesburg, Pikeville, Harlan County, the nearby Virginia towns, and Breaks Interstate Park also have tourist attractions of their own that you may be interested in.

Final Thoughts
Jenkins offers much to see and do for visitors to the area. If you live or are visiting there or nearby, I urge you to consider taking time to see some of the sights. You can access more information about Jenkins on the City of Jenkins website.

Depending on your particular interests, you might especially enjoy visiting during Jenkins Homecoming Festival Days in August or on a weekend when the amphitheater is putting on The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come drama or the weekend a Civil War reenactment is taking place. In fall, the autumn colors are nice. And when it snows enough in winter for snow to gather on the trees on the mountains, the snow on the trees looks beautiful, perhaps even more so after the snowstorm if sunlight is shining on the trees. However, U.S. Route 23 over the mountain from Jenkins to Virginia often becomes very hazardous during winter storms.

Photo of some of the Jenkins area taken from a scenic overlook on Pine Mountain beside Route 23. The overlook was constructed in 2019 near the historic marker placed some years earlier about the road cut-through, photo taken July 13, 2019

While coal mining in the early 1900s was dangerous, difficult work that generated much pollution, Jenkins seems in many ways to have been a model coal mining town, with miners and their families benefiting in ways many other coal miners did not. The town included a hospital, quality school system, and numerous businesses. It's nice that much of Jenkins's history is preserved in photographs, newspapers, books, etc. And it is great that this former coal mining town offers much more for visitors than just its coal mining history, though that is good to learn about, too.

DISCLOSURE: The author, James E. Gibson, moved to Jenkins during his junior year of high school in November 1974 with his family. He lived there until August 1976 when he moved away to college. He lived in Jenkins again from November 1993 to August 1997, and still enjoys visiting family and friends in Jenkins.

NOTE: This article was last revised on October 1, 2019.  

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